Case Study

SELECT EITHER QUESTION 1 OR 2  And Answer 3

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Nike vs. New Balance Case Questions

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Nike New Balance Case Questions

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In this case, Nike wishes the tariffs on shoes from Vietnam to be eliminated. Please defend their position citing the reasons stated in the case and any others that you can think of.

OR

Likewise, New Balance wishes the tariffs to remain; please defend their position citing the reasons stated in the case and any others you can think of

SO CHOOSE TO ANSWER EITHER QUESTION 1 OR QUESTION PLUS:

EXTRA 0.2 (ADDED TO YOUR GRADE) Let’s assume that the TPP is implemented and that tariffs from Vietnam in question are eliminated: as an advisor to New Balance, what alternative actions would you have them consider (use your creativity—the possible answers are not necessarily addressed in the case).

Volume 12

Issue 4
December 2014

Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value
Chains

Case prepared by Simon BRODEUR1 and Professor Ari VAN ASSCHE

2

United States Trade Representative (USTR) Michael Froman closed the door of his new office,
walked to his window, and admired the glimmering Washington D.C. skyline. During his
illustrious career as a government official, Froman had never wielded such power as he did now:
he had just been nominated by President Obama to be the 11th USTR, serving as the president’s
principal advisor, negotiator, and spokesperson on matters pertaining to international trade and
investment. One of his main responsibilities would be to complete negotiations on the Trans-
Pacific Partnership (TPP), an Asian-Pacific trading bloc built upon the pre-existing Trans-Pacific
Strategic Economic Partnership Agreement between Brunei, Chile, New Zealand, and Singapore.
As of 2013, numerous nations had participated in the TPP negotiations, namely the United States,
Australia, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, New Zealand, Peru, Singapore and
Vietnam (Exhibit 1).

The TPP was the most promising trade liberalization initiative since the Doha round of world
trade talks, which stalled in 2008, and would cover approximately 40% of the world’s GDP.3 The
multilateral talks could potentially deliver huge benefits for the U.S. economy, as the TPP would
provide American companies with unprecedented market access to key players in the Asia-
Pacific, the largest and fastest growing region in the world.4 Furthermore, it would allow
consumers and importers to enjoy wider and cheaper access to the goods and services of TPP
countries.

Froman knew that the TPP negotiations would have to be conducted with caution, however;
reducing U.S. barriers to trade and investment would put additional pressure on the country’s
already frail manufacturing sector. Between 1999 and 2012, while the total number of U.S. jobs
had increased by 2.3%, U.S. production occupations had fallen by 31.9% (Exhibit 2). Import
competition from and offshoring to Asian manufacturing nations such as China and Indonesia −
and TPP negotiating partner Vietnam − were widely blamed for the decline of U.S. manufacturing.

1 Simon Brodeur is an M.Sc. student at HEC Montréal.
2 Ari Van Assche is an Associate Professor in the Department of International Business at HEC Montréal.
3 “Free Trade Agreements: Opening Up the Pacific,” The Economist, November 12, 2011 (accessed October 17, 2013).
4 International Bank for Reconstruction and Development / World Bank, East Asia and Pacific Economic Update – April 2013 –

A Fine Balance, 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013).

© HEC Montréal 2014
All rights reserved for all countries. Any translation or alteration in any form whatsoever is prohibited.
The International Journal of Case Studies in Management is published on-line (http://www.hec.ca/en/case_centre/ijcsm/), ISSN 1911-2599.
This case is intended to be used as the framework for an educational discussion and does not imply any judgement on the
administrative situation presented. Deposited under number 9 00 2014 001 with the HEC Montréal Case Centre, 3000, chemin de
la Côte-Sainte-Catherine, Montréal (Québec) Canada H3T 2A7.

HEC087

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http://www.hec.ca/en/case_centre/ijcsm/

http://www.economist.com/blogs/banyan/2011/11/free-trade-agreements

http://www.worldbank.org/content/dam/Worldbank/document/EAP/eap-update-april-2013

http://www.worldbank.org/content/dam/Worldbank/document/EAP/eap-update-april-2013

Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

When negotiating the TPP, it was therefore imperative for Froman to find the right balance
between promoting American business interests abroad and protecting American interests at
home.

In recent months, industry activists and politicians had focused on the downside risks of the TPP
negotiations for the American footwear industry. U.S. footwear manufacturing had contracted by
almost a third in the last decade due to increased import competition from China and Vietnam,
and tariff reductions on Vietnamese imports would likely accelerate this decline.

Froman was aware that the footwear industry would be a major sticking point in the TPP
negotiations. After consulting with various U.S. footwear lobby groups earlier that day, he knew
that even among American companies, there was disagreement on the position the U.S. should
adopt. The divide was especially wide between two major footwear companies: Nike Inc. and
New Balance. On the one hand, New Balance was strongly opposed to the removal of tariffs on
shoes from Vietnam, as they believed this would endanger footwear manufacturing activities in
the U.S. On the other hand, Nike Inc. was adamant that the tariffs on footwear imports from
Vietnam were detrimental to the U.S. economy. According to Nike, tariffs have led to higher
footwear prices, which harm U.S. consumers and reduce the competitiveness of U.S. firms. If
tariffs were eliminated, U.S. footwear manufacturers would be able to save on production costs
and reinvest those savings in modern, high-value-added jobs in America.1

When he was sworn in as USTR, Froman had promised to use every tool at his disposal to level
the playing field so that Americans could compete and win in the global economy.2 Yet
discussions with representatives from New Balance and Nike had shown him that identifying the
best negotiating strategy would be complex and require in-depth analysis of the impact of tariff
elimination on the various footwear industry stakeholders. His stance on the TPP footwear
dilemma required urgent deliberation, as the president had summoned all of his advisors to a
conference call later that evening and expected them to advise him on the position the United
States should adopt during the TPP negotiations.

  • The U.S. footwear industry
  • Froman had to first consider the U.S. footwear market and industry to determine the impact of the
    TPP on the domestic economy. The challenges facing the footwear manufacturing industry were
    similar to those of the U.S. manufacturing sector as a whole. Rising wages and heavy competition
    from low-cost countries were putting a strain on U.S. shoe factories. In 2012, only 13,290 people
    were employed in the footwear manufacturing industry, down from 19,440 in 2003. This
    decrease was due largely to a 41% decline in the number of production workers (Exhibit 3). In
    comparison, office and administrative support occupations in the footwear industry had dropped
    by just 25%, and management occupations had almost returned to 2003 levels.

    1 Eric Martin, “New Balance Wants Its Tariffs. Nike Doesn’t,” BloombergBusinessWeek, May 3, 2012 (accessed October 17,
    2013).

    2 Office of the United States Trade Representative, “Statement by United States Trade Representative Michael Froman,” 2013:
    http://www.ustr.gov/about-us/press-office/press-releases/2013/june/amb-froman-statement (accessed October 17, 2013).

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    http://www.businessweek.com/articles/2012-05-03/new-balance-wants-its-tariffs-dot-nike-doesnt

    http://www.ustr.gov/about-us/press-office/press-releases/2013/june/amb-froman-statement

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    The decrease in U.S. footwear manufacturing activities contrasts sharply with the steady growth
    of the U.S. footwear market. It is the world’s largest, valued at $71.7 billion in 2012, accounting
    for 27.9% of the global footwear market, and projected to continue developing in the short to
    medium term (Exhibit 4).

    The main reason for America’s manufacturing decline is growing import competition from low-
    wage countries. Currently, almost 99% of the footwear sold in the United States is imported from
    low-cost manufacturing locations, especially in East and Southeast Asia.1 China alone accounted
    for 71.9% of U.S. footwear imports in 2012, while TPP negotiating partner Vietnam, a rapidly
    developing footwear behemoth, accounted for 10.1% of those imports (Exhibit 5). The pace of
    Vietnam’s growth in the footwear market is staggering: exports to the U.S. jumped an astounding
    23.8% annually between 1997 and 2012, and that trend is expected to continue over the short
    term as wages in China continue to rise.

  • Vietnamese footwear industry
  • Ever since Vietnam signed the U.S.-Vietnam Bilateral Trade Agreement in 2001 establishing
    “normal trade relations,”2 it has been an increasingly important source of footwear products. In
    just fifteen years, Vietnam grew into America’s second largest supplier of footwear imports
    (Exhibit 5). In 2012, about 13% of its exports to the U.S. were footwear products, making this a
    strategic industry for Vietnam.3

    Vietnam has a clear footwear production cost advantage over the U.S. A New Balance
    spokesperson estimated that producing a pair of shoes in the U.S. costs 25-35% more than in
    Vietnam,4 while a Nike representative estimated that it costs around US$20-25 to produce a pair
    of Nike running shoes in a Vietnamese factory.5

    Low wages are a key driver of this production cost advantage. Earnings in Vietnam are more than
    20 times lower than in the U.S. A study by the Congressional Research Service concluded that
    wages in Vietnam’s footwear and apparel manufacturing sector averaged US$0.51 an hour in
    2012.6 This is significantly lower than in China.7

    In addition to low wages, low labour and environmental standards help Vietnamese companies
    keep their production costs down. Vietnam has ratified eighteen conventions with the

    1 Timothy Aeppel, “New Balance Sweats Push to End U.S. Shoe Tariffs,” The Wall Street Journal, February 27, 2013, (accessed
    October 17, 2013).

    2 Embassy of the United States, Hanoi, Vietnam, “The U.S.-Vietnam Bilateral Trade Agreement (BTA) – Resources for
    Understanding,” n.d. (accessed October 17, 2013).

    3 United States Census Bureau, “U.S. Imports from Vietnam by 5-digit End-Use Code, 2003 – 2012,” 2012 (accessed October 17,
    2013).

    4 See Aeppel, op. cit.
    5 Jim Landers, “Vietnam Trade Deal Sparks a Running Battle on Shoe Tariffs,” The Dallas Morning News, December 27, 2012

    (accessed October 17, 2013).
    6 Michaela D. Platzer, U.S. Textile Manufacturing and the Trans-Pacific Partnership Negotiations, Congressional Research

    Service, October 5, 2012 (accessed

    October 17, 2013).
    7 See Aeppel, op. cit.

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    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887323764804578312461184782312.html

    http://vietnam.usembassy.gov/econ12.html

    http://vietnam.usembassy.gov/econ12.html

    http://www.census.gov/foreign-trade/statistics/product/enduse/imports/c5520.html%23questions

    http://www.dallasnews.com/business/headlines/20121226-vietnam-trade-deal-sparks-a-running-battle-on-shoe-tariffs.ece

    https://www.fas.org/sgp/crs/row/R42772

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    International Labour Organization (ILO).1 However, labour unions in Vietnam are not
    independent from the ruling communist party, and workers are not free to create or join unions.
    Furthermore, official strikes are rendered almost impossible due to government requirements.
    While collective bargaining exists, it is a relatively new concept and has yet to take root in the
    country. Finally, child labour, forced labour, and long hours are still a problem in Vietnam as the
    government struggles to enforce laws prohibiting such working conditions.2

    Government support of the country’s strategic footwear sector also strengthens Vietnamese firms.
    Vietnam is officially still a communist country, and its footwear sector is dominated by large
    state-owned enterprises that enjoy large government subsidies and extensive support. For
    example, Vinatex, the state-owned textile and apparel consortium, is the tenth largest garment
    producer in the world and currently accounts for 40% of the country’s apparel production, 6

    0%

    of its textile production, and close to 20% of its total apparel and textile exports.3 According to
    the National Council of Textile Organizations, Vinatex benefits from eleven different
    government subsidy programs that include low-cost loans and free land.4

    A final advantage of Vietnam’s footwear industry is its heavy reliance on cheap imported yarn
    from China. Like Vietnamese footwear, Chinese yarn is predominantly produced by large state-
    owned enterprises that receive dozens of direct and indirect subsidies from the government. The
    allegedly unfair practices of Chinese yarn producers has led many countries, including those in
    the European Union, to impose antidumping tariffs on yarn originating from China.5

  • U.S. trade protectionism
  • Compared to other industries, the U.S. footwear sector is highly protected by import tariffs.
    While U.S. import tariffs on consumer goods average about 1.5%, the average tariff on imported
    footwear is approximately 10%.6 Moreover, they can run as high as 48% of the “free on board”
    (FOB) value of imported shoes, that is, the commercial value of the shoes before transportation
    costs are added to the price (Exhibit 6). These tariff rates substantially affect production costs; for
    instance, of their US$20-25 overall production costs, current tariffs on athletic shoes add US$3 to
    US$5 to the cost of midrange running shoes from Vietnam, increasing production costs by as
    much as 25%.7

    While the United States has signed numerous free trade agreements (FTA) over the years, it has
    generally been reluctant to completely eliminate tariffs on footwear and has systematically

    1 International Labour Organization, “International Labour Standards,” n.d. (accessed October 17, 2013).
    2 Embassy of the United States, Hanoi, Vietnam, “International Labor Standards – Critical To Successful Economic Development

    – Workers’ Rights and Labor Standards,” n.d. (accessed October 17, 2013).
    3 See Platzer, op. cit.
    4 National Council of Textile Organizations, “Fact Sheet – Trans-Pacific Partnership Negotiations,” 2012 (accessed October 17,

    2013).
    5 Jonathan Steams, “China Faces Five-Year EU Tariffs on Automotive Yarn,” Bloomberg, November 29, 2010 (accessed October

    17, 2013).
    6 Erik Siemers, “Blumenauer: Footwear Tariffs Hurt Nike, Drive Up Costs,” Portland Business Journal, April 20, 2012 (accessed

    October 17, 2013).
    7 See Aeppel, op. cit.

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    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
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    http://www.ilo.org/hanoi/Areasofwork/international-labour-standards/lang–en/index.htm

    http://vietnam.usembassy.gov/econ5.html

    http://vietnam.usembassy.gov/econ5.html

    http://www.ncto.org/IndustryIssues/TPP-Fact-Sheet–Apr2012

    http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2010-11-29/china-faces-5-year-eu-taxes-on-yarn-used-by-automotive-industry.html

    http://www.bizjournals.com/portland/print-edition/2012/04/20/blumenauer-footwear-tariffs-hurt.html

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    imposed a “yarn forward rule” to these FTAs. This rule of origin requires that the yarn used in
    shoe manufacturing be produced within the FTA countries to qualify for the reduced duties
    agreed upon in the trade agreements.1 This serves to protect the U.S. textile industry, a battered
    yet significant component of the manufacturing sector. Textiles are a US$53 billion industry that
    employed almost 240,000 workers in 2011. However, its prominence has declined steadily in
    recent years, with almost 300,000 fewer people working in the textile industry than in 2001.2

    New Balance versus

    Nike Inc.

    While Vietnam was pressuring the U.S. to reduce tariffs on imported footwear, interest groups
    inside the country were also pressuring Froman and the U.S. negotiators. Froman’s meetings with
    various lobby groups revealed that the widest divide was between American footwear companies
    New Balance and Nike Inc. On the one hand, New Balance argued that reductions in import
    tariffs would be detrimental to U.S. footwear workers and smaller footwear manufacturing
    companies. On the other hand, Nike Inc. contended that reducing tariffs on footwear would
    strengthen U.S. companies, create high-value footwear jobs in the United States, and lower
    consumer prices. Froman was particularly intrigued by this disagreement: which of the two
    companies was really defending American economic interests?

    New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc.

    New Balance, an American firm headquartered in Boston, Massachusetts, has been a player in the
    footwear industry for many years.3 It was founded in 1906 under the name New Balance Arch
    Support Company by William J. Riley, a British immigrant who had the idea of designing arch
    supports shaped like a chicken’s three-clawed foot to maximize comfort, mostly for policemen
    and waiters. He later added ancillary products, and, in 1938, designed his first athletic shoe made
    of lightweight kangaroo leather with crepe soles for the Brown Bag Harriers Running Club in
    Belmont, MA. The company continued to grow and was bought in 1972 by Jim Davis, an
    entrepreneur and marathoner who still owns the firm. By 2012, his business acumen had led New
    Balance to becoming the fourth largest athletic footwear and apparel company in the world with
    annual sales of $2.4 billion in over 120 countries. In addition to its eponymous footwear and
    clothing brand, the New Balance family also includes the brands Avaron, Cobb Hill, Dunham,
    PF-Flyers, Brine, and Warrior.

    Throughout its history, New Balance has focused on footwear innovation, resulting in a number
    of industry firsts: the first athletic shoe available in multiple widths; the first running shoe made
    exclusively for women; and the first shoe to incorporate flared heels for stability. More recently,
    the company has focused on custom shoes and its “Made in America” businesses. For US$115, a
    consumer can order a custom pair of shoes that is made in the United States, choosing any
    combination of twenty-six leather colours and five fabric colours for nine different shoe parts.
    And the company is taking customization much further than just the shoe’s appearance: it is

    1 See Platzer, op. cit.
    2 Ibid.
    3 Information concerning the company’s history and statistics was obtained from New Balance’s Web sites and Responsible

    Leadership Report: http://www.newbalance.com/Overview/about_overview,default,pg.html (accessed October 17, 2013).

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    2020.

    http://www.newbalance.com/Overview/about_overview,default,pg.html

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    introducing a track-specific running shoe that uses 3-D printing to create a plate on the sole of the
    shoe that is supposed to enhance performance with every step. These custom shoes can be
    delivered in as little as four days and are a growing part of the firm’s sales.

    Over the years, this focus on innovation has consolidated New Balance’s reputation: in 1976, the
    New Balance 320 was voted the best running shoe by Runner’s World, and the 990 “Made in the
    USA” series, produced in the company’s five U.S. factories, has been increasingly popular
    among U.S. consumers ever since it was launched in 1982. In 2008, New Balance inaugurated a
    state-of-the-art research lab next to its Lawrence, MA, factory that is exclusively dedicated to
    research into athletic footwear.

    Unlike most of its competitors, New Balance does not outsource all of its footwear production to
    foreign contractors. Rather, it uses a hybrid system of insourcing and outsourcing. In New
    England, for example, New Balance owns five manufacturing plants that primarily produce for
    local markets: 90% of their output is for American consumers, accounting for about a quarter of
    the company’s total U.S. sales.1 While New Balance is currently the sole U.S. athletic footwear
    manufacturer to produce a portion of its shoes in the United States, it also relies heavily on
    foreign contractors in China, Indonesia, and Vietnam.2

    New Balance has a number of U.S. suppliers for parts it does not manufacture itself, such as
    embroidery thread or the leather used in certain shoes (see Exhibit 7 for the various shoe parts).
    These suppliers, for which New Balance is a major client, employ an estimated 7,000 people in
    the U.S.3 Moreover, its factories in small U.S. cities are vital to local economies: for instance, in
    Skowhegan, Maine, a town of 8,500, it is the largest employer in the region and its presence
    supports a wide range of small businesses, such as restaurants. The fate of whole towns and
    communities is tied to the manufacturing presence of New Balance in their region.4

    During the consultation meetings with Froman, New Balance reps expressed fierce opposition to
    tariff reductions on Vietnamese imports. According to their spokesperson, Matt LeBretton, it is
    already 25% to 35% more expensive to produce in the United States than in Vietnam. A tariff
    reduction is not necessary to make manufacturing activities viable in Vietnam and would only
    chip away at the tariff buffer that allows New Balance to produce in America.5 This, in turn,
    would force New Balance to close its U.S. factories and move all of its production facilities
    overseas. Thousands of jobs would be lost, in addition to hurting the company’s U.S. contractors
    and the small communities in which the company has manufacturing operations.

    1 See Aeppel, op. cit.
    2 See Martin, op. cit.
    3 New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc., “Made in the USA,” n.d. (accessed October 17, 2013).
    4 See Martin, op. cit.
    5 See Aeppel, op. cit.

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    http://www.newbalance.com/Made-in-the-USA/made_in_usa,default,pg.html

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Nike Inc.

    Nike Inc. is a public company headquartered in Beaverton, Oregon, and the largest athletic
    footwear and athletic apparel company in the world in terms of sales,1 with over $24 billion in
    revenues for a total gross profit of over US$10 billion in 2012.2 Its high profit margins (43.4% in
    2012) have been reflected in the price of its shares, whose value increased an average of 17%
    annually between 2003 and 2013.3 Nike Inc. offers a wide variety of products in seven key
    categories: running, basketball, soccer, men’s training, women’s training, action sports, and Nike
    Sportswear.4 In addition to the Nike brand, it also owns a few other highly popular apparel and
    sporting equipment brands such as Hurley, Converse, and Bauer Nike Hockey. Nike Inc. directly
    employs 37,715 people worldwide, but indirectly employs a much larger workforce in factories
    owned by contractors who may manufacture products for numerous companies including Nike
    Inc.5

    Nike Inc. was founded in 1964 as Blue Ribbon Sports by two partners, Phil Knight and Bill
    Bowerman. They started as distributors of Japanese-made Tiger (now Asics) running shoes, but
    as the relationship between the firm and its Japanese supplier began to sour in the early 1970s,
    Knight and Bowerman decided it was time to start manufacturing their own shoes. The new line
    of Nike shoes debuted in 1972 for the U.S. Track & Field Trials, where Bowerman’s innovative
    design – a very light outsole with waffle-type nubs for traction – was a great success. Then, in
    1979, Nike Inc. innovated once more by introducing its Nike Air technology in running shoes,
    paving the way for its IPO a year later. The firm quickly grew to become the industry leader;
    however, unlike New Balance, Nike Inc. didn’t position itself in the booming fitness sector and
    thus lost ground to its competitors.

    These difficulties were overcome by major marketing campaigns in the mid-eighties − first in
    1985, when Michael Jordan, a young NBA rookie at the time, endorsed the company, and then in
    1987, when the iconic Air Max commercial featuring the Beatles song Revolution was aired. By
    the end of the eighties, Nike Inc. had regained its title of largest footwear company in the world.
    Marketing then became a large part of Nike Inc.’s business strategy: in 1995, the firm sponsored
    the Brazil National Soccer Team and supplied its uniforms. One year later, a young golfer named
    Tiger Woods was signed for a reported annual compensation of $5 million. The company
    continued to expand, innovate, and skilfully market its products throughout the next decade. In
    2012, it became the official sponsor of the National Football League (NFL).6

    None of Nike Inc.’s 37,715 employees, roughly half of whom work in the United States,7 are
    factory workers. Rather, they are mostly involved in providing headquarter services, designing
    and engineering new equipment, promoting products, and selling them in Nike stores. As with

    1 Barbara Brenner, Bodo B. Schlegelmilch, and Björn Ambos, “Inside the NIKE matrix,” in The New Role of Regional
    Management, Björn Ambos and Bodo B. Schlegelmilch (Ed.), Hampshire, Palgrave Macmillan, 2010.

    2 Yahoo! Finance, “Nike, Inc. (NKE),” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013).
    3 Google Finance, “Nike Inc (NYSE:NKE),” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013).
    4 NYSE Euronext, “Nike Inc.,” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013).
    5 Nike Inc., Corporate Responsibility Report, 2012 (accessed October 17, 2013).
    6 Nike Inc., “History & Heritage,” n.d. (accessed October 17, 2013).
    7 Nike Inc., Corporate Responsibility Report, 2009 (accessed October 17, 2013).

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    2020.

    http://finance.yahoo.com/q/ks?s=NKE+Key+Statistics

    https://www.google.com/finance?cid=25670

    http://www.nyse.com/listed/nke.html

    http://www.nikeresponsibility.com/report/

    http://nikeinc.com/pages/history-heritage

    http://www.nikebiz.com/crreport/content/charts/chart-7-2.php

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    most U.S. footwear companies (with the notable exception of New Balance), shoe manufacturing
    has been almost completely outsourced to foreign contractors in Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, Italy,
    Bosnia, India, China, South Korea, Japan, Indonesia, Taiwan, and Vietnam.1 In August 2013, it
    was estimated that Nike’s external contractors employed more than a million people in
    774 factories in 42 countries. Vietnam supplies the most workers to Nike, with over 310,00

    0

    people producing footwear, apparel, and sporting equipment, followed by China and Indonesia,
    where contractors employ about 260,000 and 175,000 people respectively. Three quarters of
    Nike’s global workforce is located in these three countries (see Exhibit 8).

    Contrary to New Balance, Nike Inc. was a strong supporter of reducing import tariffs, predicting
    that U.S. footwear manufacturers would be able to save on production costs and reinvest their
    savings in modern, high-value-added jobs in the United States. As Erin Dobson, a Nike Inc.
    spokesperson said, “The question comes down to, is one kind of job more important than
    another? What are the jobs for the 21st century? They’re not necessarily jobs that existed 30 years
    ago.”2

    Nike Inc. also argued that being able to offshore footwear production without being penalized by
    tariffs would help to offset rising foreign labour and material costs, which would in turn make
    footwear more affordable to U.S. consumers. As argued by Oregon’s Representative Earl
    Blumenauer, whose constituency is home to Nike employees as well as the U.S. headquarters of
    Adidas, keeping the tariffs taxes millions of Americans on their footwear purchases to keep a few
    thousand manufacturing jobs.3 This argument is especially compelling when one considers that
    99% of the footwear purchased in the U.S. is produced in other countries.

  • Eliminating Footwear Tariffs – A Blessing or a Curse?
  • Through his numerous meetings with lobbyists, industry spokespeople, and activists, Froman was
    able to map the major arguments for and against the elimination of footwear import tariffs under
    the TPP. While his determination to level the playing field so that Americans could compete in
    the global economy never faltered, it became obvious to him that no decision would have a
    purely positive impact on every stakeholder. Numerous realities and potential impacts had to be
    considered since adopting the wrong position could have ripple effects throughout the U.S.
    economy.

    As the daylight faded, Froman was still pondering the various statistics and viewpoints. Should
    he side with New Balance and insist that footwear tariff reductions be kept off the negotiating
    table? Or would the elimination of tariffs as advocated by Nike Inc. be more beneficial to U.S.
    interests? Should the United States impose conditions on Vietnam for reducing footwear tariffs?
    His phone rang, and the numbers were still dancing in his head as he heard the beep indicating
    that he had joined the conference call.

    2014-11-14

    1 Nike Inc., “Global Manufacturing,” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013).
    2 See Martin, op. cit.
    3 Ibid.

    © HEC Montréal 8

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://nikeinc.com/pages/manufacturing-map

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 1
    The 12 Negotiating Parties to the Transpacific Partnership

    Source: Office of the United States Trade Representative, “The United States in the Trans-Pacific Partnership,” 2011
    (accessed October 17, 2013)

    © HEC Montréal 9

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://www.ustr.gov/about-us/press-office/fact-sheets/2011/november/united-states-trans-pacific-partnership

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 2
    Production Occupations and Total Employment in the U.S., 1999-2012

    Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, “Occupational Employment Statistics,” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013)

    © HEC Montréal 10

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://www.bls.gov/oes/

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 3
    U.S. Occupations in the Footwear Industry, 2003-2012

    Total

    Production
    occupations

    Office and
    administrative

    support occupations

    Management
    occupations

    Year
    #

    workers

    Average
    hourly
    wage

    #
    workers

    Average
    hourly
    wage

    #
    workers
    Average
    hourly
    wage

    #
    workers
    Average
    hourly
    wage

    2003 19,440 12.26 14,040 10.48

    1,900 12.25

    620 43.72
    2004 19,170 13.14

    12,120 10.35

    2,410 12.79

    810 42.77

    2005 18,410 13.24

    12,170 10.81

    2,350 13.00

    620 43.38
    2006 17,340 13.77

    12,300 11.31

    1,930 13.51

    600 44.66

    2007 15,760 13.87

    12,150 11.75

    1,170 13.42

    470 44.14
    2008 16,290 14.40

    12,650 12.21

    1,100 14.47

    490 46.56

    2009 15,420 14.43

    12,030 12.32

    980 15.06

    440 48.14
    2010 13,790 15.89

    9,770 12.56

    1,170 15.73

    470 54.62

    2011 13,650 16.25

    9,600 12.76

    1,260 15.81

    470 56.50
    2012 13,290 17.61

    8,340 12.70

    1,420 15.87 590 56.23

    Source: Bureau of Labor Statistics, “Occupational Employment Statistics,” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013)

    © HEC Montréal 11

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://www.bls.gov/oes/

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 4
    U.S. Footwear Market Value and Growth, 2008

    Source: Marketline, U.S. Footwear in the United States, March 2013

    © HEC Montréal 12

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 5
    Growth of U.S. Footwear Imports, by Country of Origin, 1997-2012

    U.S. Footwear imports

    Share of U.S.
    footwear imports

    (US$ Millions) Compound Annual
    Growth

    (%)

    (%)

    Country 1997 2012 1997-2012 1997 2012
    China 7,737 17,876

    5.74 53.03 71.90

    Vietnam 102 2,512

    23.83 0.70 10.11
    Italy 1,244 1,230

    -0.07 8.53 4.95

    Indonesia 1,139 982

    -0.99 7.81 3.95
    Mexico 393 497

    1.57 2.69 2.00

    Rest of the world 3,560 1,233

    3.62 27.24 7.09

    Source: United Nations Comtrade Database: http://comtrade.un.org/

    © HEC Montréal 13

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://comtrade.un.org/

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 6
    Import Duty on a Pair of Athletic Shoes That Do Not Cover the Ankles with

    Outer Soles of Rubber, Plastics, Leather or Composition Leather, and Have a
    F.O.B. Value of More Than $6.50

    Tariff Rate

    Textile
    Upper

    Harmonized
    System
    Code

    Most

    Favoured
    Nation

    NAFTA KORUS FTA

    F.O.B. value
    < $12 6404.11.89

    20% + 90
    cents per pair

    0%

    0%

    F.O.B. value
    > $12

    6404.11.90

    20%

    0%

    20%

    Leather
    upper

    6403.99.90

    10%

    0%

    0%

    Source: United States International Trade Commission, “Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States,” 2013
    (accessed October 17, 2013)

    © HEC Montréal 14

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://hts.usitc.gov/

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 7
    A New Balance Shoe Made in the United States

    Source: Timothy Aeppel, “New Balance Sweats Push to End U.S. Shoe Tariffs,” Wall Street Journal, February 27,
    2013 (accessed October 17, 2013)

    © HEC Montréal 15

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887323764804578312461184782312.html

    Nike versus New Balance: Trade Policy in a World of Global Value Chains

    Exhibit 8
    Nike Inc.’s Manufacturing Network

    (data as of August 2013)

    Global production Footwear production

    Country

    Workers
    Number

    of
    factories

    Workers

    Number
    of

    factories

    Workers
    (Nike

    brand)
    Vietnam

    312,828

    70

    231,420

    29

    193,169

    China 263,108 213 129,920

    38

    119,654
    Indonesia 174,259 42 131,958

    20

    117,452

    United States 13,670 65 77

    2

    0

    Total (including
    other countries

    1,005,547

    774

    528,509

    163 459,307

    Source: Nike Inc., “Global Manufacturing,” 2013 (accessed October 17, 2013)
     These statistics do not indicate the number of workers that are employed by Nike Inc., but rather the number

    of workers that are involved in the production of Nike Inc. products.

    © HEC Montréal 16

    For the exclusive use of Z. Chen, 2020.
    This document is authorized for use only by Zhuo Chen in The Global Economic Environment-1-1-1-1 (A) taught by ROBERT COSCARELLO, Pepperdine University from Mar 2020 to Apr
    2020.

    http://nikeinc.com/pages/manufacturing-map

      The U.S. footwear industry
      Vietnamese footwear industry
      U.S. trade protectionism

    • New Balance versus Nike Inc.
    • New Balance Athletic Shoe, Inc.
      Nike Inc.
      Eliminating Footwear Tariffs – A Blessing or a Curse?
      Exhibit 1 The 12 Negotiating Parties to the Transpacific Partnership
      Exhibit 2 Production Occupations and Total Employment in the U.S., 1999-2012
      Exhibit 3 U.S. Occupations in the Footwear Industry, 2003-2012
      Exhibit 4 U.S. Footwear Market Value and Growth, 2008
      Exhibit 5 Growth of U.S. Footwear Imports, by Country of Origin, 1997-2012
      Exhibit 6 Import Duty on a Pair of Athletic Shoes That Do Not Cover the Ankles with Outer Soles of Rubber, Plastics, Leather or Composition Leather, and Have a F.O.B. Value of More Than $6.50
      Exhibit 7 A New Balance Shoe Made in the United States
      Exhibit 8 Nike Inc.’s Manufacturing Network (data as of August 2013)

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